Our Economical and Premium products contain the same ingredients, but in different proportions.
The reason for the warning is not because of corrosion issues or incompatibilities with metal, but rather because the Economical product exhibits more physical expansion at -50°C and this could damage metal pipes that are inherently less flexible than plastic pipes.
 

DEF should be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area at a constant temperature. It should be kept away from direct sunlight and an ideal storage would be inside a warehouse or garage.

DEF doesn’t really have an expiry date. When stored at room temperature, the fluid is stable for 3 years. DEF freezes at 12°F/-11°C, but frozen fluid can be thawed and used without concern of product degradation.

The amount of DEF needed is related to the vehicle’s fuel consumption; it is about 3% of the diesel fuel consumed. For every 100 gallons of fuel consumed, 3 gallons of DEF is required. There is a DEF gauge on the vehicle’s dashboard to indicate the level of DEF in the tank.

The American Petroleum Institute (API) Certification program authorizes diesel exhaust fluid marketers that meet specified ISO performance requirements to use the API Diesel Exhaust Fluid Certification ‘logo’. The benefits of API certified Diesel Exhaust Fluid include:

• Easily identifies diesel exhaust fluids that meet diesel engine manufacturer requirements
• Proves the manufacturer has a very strict quality management system in place to offer DEF of the highest standard
• Effectively helps to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions
• Ensures testing of licensed fluids to meet program requirements
• Assures rigorous monitoring of fluids in the marketplace
• Provides a choice of quality brands from which to choose

The quality of your DEF is very important and fluid that is produced, packaged and distributed by a qualified company is easily identifiable if the packaging displays the API Certified mark (symbol). All of Blue Network’s Air1® DEF is API approved for quality and protection from impurities, and the product labels include the API symbol.

DEF has to be of high quality and remain clean and contaminate-free in order to work properly in your vehicle. DEF that may have been exposed to dust, dirt, or mixed with other substances should not be used because the quality of your DEF product is critical for:

• Meeting the regulated emissions standards
• Achieving optimum fuel consumption
• Avoiding engine damage over prolonged use of a compromised fluid

Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) is the engine technology chosen by the majority of leading North American manufacturers of new on-road diesel medium and heavy duty vehicles for reducing nitrogen oxide emission levels, as required by the 2010 EPA emission standards. The technology requires an operating fluid (DEF) to chemically reduce nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions during combustion. The fluid is contained in a separate tank and is sprayed into the exhaust system before the catalytic converter breaks down NOx into harmless nitrogen (N2) and water vapour to be released into the air.

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) is a clear, highly pure solution of urea (32.5%) in water that meets the automotive industry specification defined by ISO 22241. It is the operating fluid used in newer diesel engines using SCR Technology. It is safe to handle and use; it is not explosive, flammable, toxic or subject to any hazardous product regulations.

Lacquer Thinner is required for thinning lacquers and automotive paints while Paint Thinner is optimal for thinning oil-based paints and coatings. Although the products are both solvents, Lacquer Thinner is not recommended for architectural oil-based paints and is much more flammable than Paint Thinner.

Mineral Spirits has fewer aromatic solvents while other similar Products – Paint Thinner, Varsol® Paint Thinner – contain higher concentrations. Both are petroleum distillates and are generally interchangeable.

Recordsol Paint Thinner does have a stronger odour than the Low Odour Paint Thinner because of its composition. There are more aromatics present in regular paint thinner which gives a stronger smell. The composition of the Low Odour Paint Thinner has less aromatics, therefore very little odour.

Paint Thinner is safe for use on wood, metals, and concrete and is not recommended for use on some plastics, foam, and coatings (i.e. paint), as it may cause damage. Paint Thinner tends to soften rubber and plastics.

Yes. Paint thinner is most often used indoors. Because paint thinner is a volatile material and will evaporate into the air much faster than water, it is recommended that good ventilation – open windows, fans – be maintained while using to prevent buildup of the vapours. To avoid breathing in the fumes, wear a vapour mask. Under normal use and good ventilation, the level of fumes will not be high enough to be toxic. Only if fumes are allowed to concentrate and become excessive can they become harmful. Toxicity is all about degrees and concentrations.

All MSDS for Paint thinner are the same. The difference is the “Associated Product’s Item Code” number. In general the last number indicates the size of the container of the product. For example, the MSDS for Paint thinner 13-321 is for a 1L bottle; 13-324 is for the 4L Paint thinner. The rest of the information on both MSDSs is identical.

Varsol* Paint Thinner is the registered trademark of a premium solvent and is guaranteed for its quality. Uses include thinning paints, cleaning surfaces and paintbrushes, and as an all-purpose degreaser. Its medium to fast evaporation rate makes it preferable for indoor use in a well-ventilated area.

Paint Thinner is a “generic” type of thinner, while Varsol* Paint Thinner carries a guarantee of purity. Its consistent quality makes Varsol* Paint Thinner the choice of leading paint manufacturers. Regular paint thinner is usually less expensive than Varsol* Paint Thinner but it can be used for the same applications.

Varsol* Paint Thinner is an excellent degreaser for use on most metals, including automotive and industrial, and as a pre-treatment for gluing.

Yes. Varsol* Paint Thinner, in addition to its many other applications, is safe to use on most wooden surfaces. Because furniture has many different finishes, from antique polishes to modern plastic coatings, it is a good idea to pre-test in a hidden area first.

There is no difference between these products; it is just a different name for the same thing.

They are not the same, but in most workshop applications either one can be used. Otherwise, Denatured Alcohol is an ethanol-based product and is considered less toxic than Methanol. Check to see if the manufacturer specifies one in particular and follow the recommendation.

Methyl Hydrate, also known as Methanol and Wood Alcohol, is used as a fondue fuel, shellac thinner, gas line antifreeze, and, when mixed with water, as a powerful window cleaner.

Acetone is useful to remove nail polish, thin certain coatings, remove and thin epoxies, glue, and fibreglass. Acetone is highly flammable and is not for use in the presence of open flames or sparks. Smoking during use is dangerous.

No, the substitution of Acetone for Methyl Hydrate is not recommended, as Acetone is highly flammable. Acetone should never be used as a fuel.

Paint & Varnish Remover works faster to reduce working time and is safe to use with heat because it is not flammable. Methylene Chloride Free Paint & Varnish Remover will require more effort to remove the coating and cannot be heated, due to its flammability. The vapours are free of Methylene Chloride.

Both of these products are pH neutral.

Yes. TSP is an inorganic phosphate salt that is soluble in water and does not harm the environment when used as directed.

TSP is safe for use on most hard surfaces as an all-purpose cleaner and degreaser and is especially effective in preparing surfaces for painting. Also use TSP to clean grease and wax stains, and in the garage to remove oil spots and prepare for driveway sealing. It is safe for indoor and outdoor use and in septic systems. Please refer to the package for mixing directions.

Although scrubbing with TSP will remove the algae and mildew, it does not prevent re-growth.

No and it may actually prevent harmful damage. A paste of TSP and water applied to stubborn oil stains can remove oil before it erodes the driveway. It is the oil that will erode the asphalt, not the TSP. Please refer to the directions on the package for mixing instructions.

TSP is a mild skin irritant that will not harm your skin if it is removed quickly with soap and water. However, gloves are recommended whenever working with TSP for extended periods.

When properly mixed, TSP helps remove oils and grease without affecting paint or wallpaper adhesives. Check the package for mixing instructions, or try Liquid TSP, which is already premixed and ready to use.

Yes, Universal Antifreeze/Coolant is fully aluminum compatible.

Either dilute a small spill with a large amount of water, or absorb the spill with a small amount of absorbent material (i.e. kitty litter). Dispose of the absorbent material in regular garbage.

No. Recochem’s Turbo Power coolants are specially formulated to meet various engine requirements. We do not recommend using diesel engine coolants in regular vehicles because all of our coolants meet different performance specifications. Our Turbo Power Diesel Antifreeze/Coolant 16-284 is made for all types of heavy-duty car and truck diesel engines. For cars and light duty trucks, use the Turbo Power Universal Antifreeze/Coolant 16-244.

Yes, our Organic Acid Technology (OAT) engine coolant is Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant. It is an engine coolant that is based on fully neutralized organic acid corrosion inhibitors. These corrosion inhibitors last longer than traditional corrosion inhibitors, and this is why OAT coolants are typically long life products. These coolants do not contain phosphates, borates, silicates, etc.

There are two basic issues here:
Incompatibility between coolants – chemical instability where the corrosion inhibitors fall out of the coolant.
Performance issues – the performance of the combined mixture is only as good as the weakest link.

Because it will freeze. The freeze point of undiluted coolant will only be -13ºC, and therefore you could have freeze point problems in the wintertime. Too much corrosion inhibitor could lead to inhibitor fallout, especially in those cases where SCAs (supplemental coolant additive) are added. Physical properties of pure coolant are not the same as premixed coolant.

Some coolants are sensitive to hard water, which can cause some corrosion inhibitors to form insoluble salts in the water. The result is premature coolant failure. Hard water salts will deposit on hot areas within the coolant system creating insulating films, which contribute to overheating problems in the coolant system.

Each product label has the following information for dilution ratio and protection level:

 50% antifreeze (50% water)60% antifreeze (40% water)70% antifreeze (30% water)Protection against freezing (°C)-37°C-52°C-64°CProtection against boil-over (°C) **129°C132°C136°C

**with a 100 kilopascal (15 psi) radiator cap in good condition

In general, follow your OEM’s (Original Equipment Manufacturer) guidelines. If you do not have a guide and are using traditional coolant, then change every two years. Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is every 5 years or 250,000 km. Extended Life Heavy Duty is 960,000 km, 12,000 hours, or 4 years, whichever comes first.

It is important to note that you should check a coolant system at least twice a year. If the coolant is dirty, cloudy, or full of particulate, then the coolant system should be drained, flushed, cleaned, and refilled with a prediluted good quality coolant. Also, the reason for the bad condition of the coolant should be determined.

For the correct selection for your vehicle, please refer to your owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommendation.

The mixing of fluids is not recommended with any product, and always check the label for further instructions.

Please refer to your owner’s manual for maintenance schedules.

A mixture of 45% concentrate to 55% water protects to -37°C. A mixture of 50% concentrate to 50% water protects to -40°C.

R.V. Plumbing Antifreeze is non-toxic, however it isn’t recommended for use in wells. If some product gets into the well, it isn’t harmful.

Normal pool opening procedures should remove the smell of the R. V. Plumbing Antifreeze, and if an odour remains, continue the flushing procedure until the smell diminishes. If the odour lingers after the water runs clean, simply open the pool as usual, and the odour will fade. The presence of an odour once the water runs clear does not mean that R.V. Plumbing Antifreeze is still trapped in the lines; it is the plastic in the hoses that absorbs the smell. However, always be sure to flush with copious amount of water.

Handheld hydrometers do not give accurate readings. In order to achieve the best protection from our product, first drain the system as much as possible. Pour antifreeze into the fresh water lines through the pressurization system or by removing faucet stems. Add antifreeze until colour is evident at drain points. Have a mechanic test the ratio if necessary.

Do not confuse this product with radiator antifreeze/coolant. Never use R.V. Plumbing Antifreeze as a heat transfer medium. R.V. Plumbing Antifreeze can be used to protect heat transfer pipes from freezing when not in use, but pipes must be flushed thoroughly before using.

Wood Preservatives are not intended for indoor use. These products are intended for outdoor use only on decks, fences, picnic tables, or on any uncoated or pressure treated wood.

Wood Preservatives should be applied before treating with stains and water sealers and cannot be applied over new varnish or paint. The preservatives would not penetrate into the wood enough to be beneficial. The only exception is if the stain or water sealer is very old (more than 5 years), then Wood Preservatives can be applied without risk of damaging the old finish.

Copper II is a bright green preservative based on copper naphthenate as the active ingredient so it is best used where the greenish tinge on the wood is not a problem or a dark paint will be used over it. It cannot be painted over with pale colours and will show through transparent stains. Copper II provides slightly better protection than clear preservative so it is often recommended for wood in contact with soil or to reduce maintenance. Clear preservative is based on Zinc naphthenate and provides invisible protection. It is ideal where the natural colour of wood is desired or where the wood will be painted with light coloured paints or transparent stains.

Most Wood Preservatives dry in 2 weeks or when the temperature reaches roughly 28°C. Once dry, the odour will dissipate. Green Wood Preservative could bleed through paint, so use a dark colour to prevent discoloration or refrain from painting all together.

Yes. It is called clear, paintable preservative because it will not bleed through paint. Even light coloured paints can be used successfully.

Reapply Wood Preservatives every 3 to 5 years in normal conditions and more frequently when conditions are more severe, such as shaded damp areas or those exposed to prolonged direct sunlight.

Under normal conditions, Clear Wood Preservative lasts approximately 2 to 3 years.

We do not recommend using a wood preservative as a water repellent. Recochem does have a product called Water Repellent item 13-754 that is excellent for providing water repellency.

Always use a paintbrush or roller to apply Wood Preservatives. Please note that government regulations prohibit the application of Wood Preservatives by a spray gun. Use a brush or roller.

Treat the wood outdoors, and take a break if you find the odour is strong. You can also make the odour less noticeable by mixing an ounce (ml) of aromatherapy essential oil (cinnamon or bergamot) into the preservative.

Wood Preservatives can be touched once dry without any harmful side effects. Wood Preservatives are mainly toxic when wet. Once dry, they are safe for skin contact.

No. Arsenic is sometimes found in the chemicals used to treat pressure treated lumber. Wood preservative applied by brushing on do not contain arsenic.

The result is similar, but pressure treating provides deeper penetration of preservatives into the wood.

The main difference between these two products is that Boiled Linseed Oil contains drying agents to speed the drying of the oil and decrease working time.

Either oil can be used for these applications, but Boiled Linseed Oil is easier for the novice. Several light coats provide the best protection, and applying too much Linseed Oil can result in a permanently tacky surface. Please follow the package directions closely, and wipe off any oil not penetrated after half an hour.

For an even finish, Recochem Linseed Oil can be mixed with equal parts of Turpentine or Recordsol Paint thinner. Wipe off any excess oil. A minimum of 24 hours should be given to allow the first application to dry. Raw Linseed oil should be mixed with one part Turpentine to two parts linseed oil to ensure even penetration on the surface.

Linseed oil does not dry or evaporate like water. It fills the pores of the surface and forms a protective film. Perhaps too much linseed oil was applied at once, which caused the sticky finish. For an even finish, a very thin coat should be applied and rubbed well into the wood. Any excess oil left after 30 minutes should be wiped off. Linseed oil takes a long time to dry, and a second coat should be applied only after eight hours. To remove linseed oil, try using Recochem’s Paint and Varnish Remover. If the oil is still wet or fresh, a mixture of water and laundry detergent or Recochem T.S.P. all-purpose cleaner should remove it.

Only oil-based coatings can be applied, and only when the oil is thoroughly dry.

Recochem White Shellac has a “2 lb. cut.”

The best solvents for dilution are Methyl Hydrate and Shellac Thinner.

If White Shellac is spilled on your skin, plenty of warm soapy water should remove it. Otherwise, try an auto mechanic or shop hand cleanser.

Both paint and coatings can be applied over White Shellac, and best results are achieved with oil-based polyurethanes.

Our White Shellac does not contain waxes.

Follow the directions printed on the package. Mothballs are used to protect clothing made of natural fibres like wool from moth larvae. The appropriate amount of mothballs is placed in a sealable container. We suggest placing the mothballs in an old sock or a cloth bag to allow them to evaporate and to avoid direct contact with synthetic parts of clothing, – especially rayon and spandex – plastic buttons, zippers or fasteners because direct contact could damage these plastic parts. Mothballs are ineffective when used in an everyday closet because it will not allow naphthalene vapours to buildup.

Ventilation, like hanging clothes on a clothes line, is the key to eliminating the Mothball odour. If the odour remains, check to make sure you have removed all of the Mothballs from the clothes.

Used in a sealed container, as indicated on the packaging, all of the moth’s larvae should be dead in about 2 weeks.

Mothballs have no effect on mould and mildew; naphthalene is not a disinfectant.

Mothballs must be used in a sealable container to be effective and prevent human or animal exposure to the vapours. Avoid breathing vapours. Excessive inhalation of the vapours could cause symptoms like (but not limited to) headache or light headedness. Every person would exhibit a different level of reaction to the vapours. If you touch the Mothballs, wash your hands.

Although some find the odour of Mothballs unpleasant, there have been no reports of allergic reactions to this product.

No. Mothballs are only designed to control moth larvae in a sealable container as described on product packaging.

Naphthalene is a chemical compound that is a whitish crystal material at room temperature and has a distinct tar-like odour. It is a natural component of fossil fuels, such as petroleum and coal tar, and is released when wood and tobacco are burned. The major uses of Naphthalene include plasticizers for the manufacturing of PVC, unsaturated polyester resins and alkyd resins, as a dispersant in concrete reinforcing, as tanning agents in leather processing, and Naphthalene is also used as a pesticide to control cloths moths.

1-K specification Clear Kerosene is a fuel that has low sulphur content. It can be burned indoors because it will not produce fumes that can be present in cheaper grades of kerosene. Recochem product is good for catalytic stoves and kerosene heaters because it burns with little smoke or scent.

Parazene is a registered name for the chemical compound called para-Dichlorobenzene. It is commonly used as a chemical feedstock intermediate in the production of polyphenylene sulfide. It is also used in the manufacture of certain resins, in the pharmaceutical industry, as a general insecticide in farming, and to make deodorizers.

Always keep Mothballs out of reach of children and pets at all times. The main hazard with accidental swallowing of Mothballs is the possibility of chocking. In the case of chocking call 911 immediately and provide first aid.
If a child or pet swallows a mothball with no incident, contact the Poison Control Centre or your doctor or veterinarian, try to determine how many balls were ingested and provide them with the information found on the packaging, more specifically the PCP code found on the box. Follow the Health Specialist’s directions.

No. Mothballs are only designed to control moth larvae in a sealable container as described on the packaging. Do not spread Mothballs in your house as an animal repellent. Warning: Spreading Mothballs loosely in your attic or crawl space will cause Mothball vapours to be released throughout the house. Depending on how many balls were scattered, the vapours could become overwhelming. Please note that Mothballs will take several months to evaporate completely.